A birthday treat 3 night (2 full days) stay in Lisbon, Portugal.
We stayed B&B in Sana Reno Hotel. A three star situated in a central location with easy access to all tourist sight, right opposite the Metro (underground system) and with its own rooftop pool.
Getting around: We walked about 7 miles a day exploring and used Metro, tram and bus.
We bought Navigante cards which can be loaded for 24 hours of travel costing Euro 0.50 for the card which can be topped up any time for a year. We loaded Euro 7.25 a day per person for unlimited metro, train, tram and bus rides. Loading the cards at machines in the Metro stations is challenging but locals will help you and there are instructions on the machine once you select your preferred language!
Tram 28 is popular for tourists as it goes past all the landmarks but Tram 12 is a similar route and less crowded.
Day One: was spent in Alfama, famous for its cobbled streets and colourful houses, narrow streets and steep hills.
Above, nearby is Pink Street, originally a red light area and now a tourist attraction for its nightlife, bars and vibrant community. A good place for a few beers or dinner.
Below: The houses in Alfama are famous for their brightly painted colours and their beautiful tiled frontages, the streets are steep and cobbled and very narrow.
An enterprising family were offering ginginha, a Portuguese cherry liquor served in tiny edible chocolate cups, from their doorway. It was delicious!
There was no shortage of shops selling beautiful cakes.
In Alfama there are many places where fado music is played. Above is the famous Fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues 1920 - 1999. This singing is accompanied by a guitarist and is found in the little restuarants in Alfama in the evenings.
FADO SINGERS HISTORY/CULTURE
Day 2 was spent around Belim, we didn't go inside the Jeronimo monastery, but headed to the nearby famous pastel de natas shop, trading since 1837. These custard filled pastries are found all over Lisbon and are a well known portuguese treat, but this particular bakery has been making them for 189 years and we thought they were superior to any we tried elsewhere! The bakery itself is beautiful, with deep blue tiling and a lovely outdoor/indoor seating area where you are served at your table (or can buy takeaway).
Lx factory area
A short distance away is the LX Factory - built in 1846, it was a textile factory and in the 80s transformed into shops and units which are very pretty, with a market vibe.
Surprisingly clean toilet!
Tinned sardines are everywhere!!! Many different flavours and prices, some specialist shops and even at the airport Duty Free shop. Canning began in the 1950s and sardines are now an important cultural symbol.
Time Out food market area: A short bus journey from LX Factory. We arrived late in the afternoon and the fresh food market had closed, but the food courts were in full swing, with many people seated in the centre, having chosen their meals from the vendors in units all around the sides of the vast market hall. There were also some spectacular florists in the entrances.
I have never seen magnolia tree branches in flower for sale (almost sacrilege!).
Just outside the market was a small shop full of African imports.
Lisbon landmarks are at the main square (wavy tiled paving) and along the River Tagus where there is much maritime history, including the 25th April Bridge (the longest suspension bridge in Europe), Belem Tower, (under repair/closed when we visited) and Monument of the Discoveries.
Above Belem Tower, a lookout against invaders
Above: Monument of the Discoveries, built to celebrate the 15th-16th century age of discovery and
featuring Prince Henry the Navigator and other explorers.
The famous paving of Rossio Square, this design represents and is therefore called, 'the wide ocean'. Made of limestone paving technique which is found in many places around the area but none so spectacular as this vast display.
Above: Statue of King Joseph
Above: Rua Augusta's Arch, connecting the commercial area to the rest of the City.
Above: The Santa Justa lift was built to connect the lower and higher street levels but has become a tourist attraction because of its spectacular views at the top.
To conclude: Don't go in March! the weather is changeable, we were lucky and got sunny days and no rain but it can be cold; most of the main attractions were closed for renovation (very disappointed that we couldn't see the Tile Museum), Jeronimo Monastery was partly under cover, the Belem Tower was also closed for renovation and so was the Santa Justa lift. This was an unplanned, last minute trip for us to relax rather than to soak up history. My hubby knew I wanted to see Alfama and we weren't disappointed!
